Team Argha or Team Khanchi?

I'm a temporarily embarrassed homebody; somehow, I've found myself in a Nepali village 7,500 miles from home. And this isn't the first time it's happened. Last year, I ended up 4,000 miles from home in the little-known (at least to Americans) German city of Osnabrueck. Some faraway voice (it sounds like my own. Could it be?) keeps urging me to apply for these opportunities abroad and then, suddenly, there I am. 

I guess I'm a traveler, although I don't travel much beyond the initial plane ride. I like getting to a place and then staying a while. When things get overwhelming, I take comfort in researching the histories and legends of these places. It's reassuring to know I'm just one small scrap in a long chain of events. I want to share the interesting stories I've collected for Argakhanchi, my new Nepali home, in this post. 

Sandhikharka with its many colorful houses

Sandhikharka street view, mixing old and new architecture

270 degree view tower as there's a hill partially blocking one side 

The mid-hill region of Nepal was once governed by many small principalities, including the Kingdoms of Argha and Khanchi. These two kingdoms often came into conflict with one another, especially over valley grazing rights. When it became evident that neither side would emerge the clear victor, Argha and Khanchi decided to sign a peace treaty in what is now known as Sandhikharka (in Nepali, sandhi means treaty and kharka pastureland). Today, in the urban core of Sandhikharka, the Peace Park is a quiet oasis that commemorates the treaty with a small rock installation. 

The Kingdoms of Argha and Khanchi were annexed by Prithvi Narayan Shah, who I've mentioned a few times in this blog, as he campaigned for a unified Nepal. Later still, Argha and Khanchi merged into Arghakhanchi, one political entity and federal district. Sandhikharka is the largest city and administrative capital of the district.I live in a small village about 30-45 minutes away (depending on how suicidal the taxi driver is feeling) and I've visited a few times to meet with other volunteers or extended host family members.  

A stroll through Peace Park, Sandhikharka

Conflict ends with a handshake

The royal palaces of the former Kingdoms of Argha and Khanchi are popular tourist spots for the district. Last month, my fellow Arghakhanchi volunteers and I (9 people  in total) visited Argha Durbar. The buildings themselves are in rough shape, although it seems there are ongoing restoration efforts. I was blown away by the location, however, which is at the top of  one of the highest hills in the district, offering great views of the villages below. From up there, I was just barely able to make out one Himalayan peak. I've been keeping count of my mountain sightings and I'm up to 6 now, usually after a heavy rain. The weather is seldom clear enough to see that far north, but when it is, it's glorious. 

Next to Argha Durbar stands a giant statue of the goddess Durga, riding atop a lion. Durga represents strength and protection, and a major Nepali festival, Dashian, is dedicated to her. I read in this article (Argha Bhagawati) that the statue is the largest idol of Durga in Asia. I'm not exactly sure when it was constructed, but it seems the local government hopes the statue entices religious tourists to spend more time in the district while on pilgrimages to Lumbini (Buddha's birthplace) and Supa Deurali. 

Who's that girl? It's Durga!

Argha Durbar Square 

I haven't yet visited Khanchi Durbar, though I passed signs for it while hiking to Supa Deurali Temple. From what I can tell, Supa Deurali is the biggest attraction in Arghakhanchi. I've been twice now: once during a pitstop on my initial trip into the district, and most recently, on Chaite Dashain with my host sister (see last post). It's a super beautiful pagoda-style temple, perched on the edge of a very steep and narrow road that overlooks a river and heavily forested hills. Although dry at the time of my visits, a waterfall is visible during monsoon season on a nearby rock face. 

I haven't been able to find a single, definitive origin story for the temple, but I put together some recurring elements that I saw in multiple tellings. According to legend, a princess from the royal family of Khanchi was married off to an Indian prince without her consent. While traveling to meet  her new husband, she committed suicide in her palanquin, and her blood spilled to the ground. Soon after, disease began to spread throughout the kingdom.  A priest was consulted, and he told the citizens that the plague was the princess's revenge. A small shrine was built over the place where her blood fell, and the plague ended. That shrine eventually grew into what is now Supa Deurali. Today, pilgrims come to worship the divine feminine, Devi, who then grants their wishes. 

Worshippers @ Supa Deurali

A short and sweet post, but I hope it was amusing. As I learn to read Nepali, I'm sure I'll gain access to so much more information. In the coming months, I hope to visit some more touristy spots in the district, including the Rock Garden and Aakashdevi Temple. Life in Arghakhanchi moves at a slow pace, but that doesn't mean there isn't a rich culture and history to uncover. Stay tuned for future posts!

Here I Yam! testing out a satellite phone in Sandhikharka